Here it is nearly a full year after my first post, so much for expeditiously! My apologies, this year has been quite full and busy. Let’s get right to it, shall we?
Now that you have on your shift, stockings, garters, shoes, and cap it is time to put on the outer layers of your 18th Century clothing. The next thing you are going to want to put on is your petticoat. A petticoat is what we would call a skirt today. For the perfect 18th c silhouette, it is recommended that you always wear at least two petticoats. Petticoats tie around the waist making them incredibly versatile for changing figures. The most common materials are wool, linen, silk, and cotton. The one pictured here is made from a cotton fabric called matelasse. It mimics a quilted petticoat and gives the outer petticoat a bit of “oomph.” The fabric was purchased from Renaissance Fabrics here:
https://renaissancefabrics.com/product/white-cotton-matelasse/
Petticoats are incredibly easy to make and are a great first project for the aspiring sewist! They are two lengths of fabric sewn up the sides until about 9” from the waistline. The length is dependent on taste and impression. The waist is pleated to half your total waist measurement both front and back. The pleats are secured to ties that are similar to an apron. You tie the back half of the petticoat on first, and then the front. Poke around online to find a tutorial.
The next step is to tie on your pocket. If you’ve ever wondered how Lucy Locket lost her little pocket in the nursery rhyme, well that was because it was tied around her waist and came loose. I typically only wear one but it is period correct also to wear two. Pockets typically do NOT show. There are some Sandby prints of street peddlers where the pockets are showing but this is probably because she needs easy access to her money so she can make change for customers. This pocket is made from an 18th c. reproduction printed cotton, bound with linen tape and backed with a strong linen fabric. You’d be surprised how much you can fit in these things!
On top of that you’ll wear your outer petticoat. As for the under petticoat fabrics include natural fibers such as linen, wool, cotton, and silk with linen and wool being the most common. Pay careful attention to color choice. Read runaway ads, search old newspapers, see what colors the majority of folks were wearing.
If you’re just starting out in living history I highly recommend starting with a bedgown for your first outer garment. The bedgown is great for an everyday person's impression.They are comfortable and very forgiving. The tutorial I used to make mine is the period pattern as described in the Encyclopedia laid out by Garsault:
https://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18mdelit.shtml
Don’t be daunted by the use of the metric system, your measuring tape no doubt has cm, but feel free to convert if you wish. I made this one from wool, but I also have one made of linen for hotter days.The bedgown is held closed by tying an apron on top of it. The whole look is then topped with a handkerchief. This one came from Burnley and Trowbridge who have a handkerchief to suit every taste.
Linen, cotton, and silk would also be appropriate depending on your impression. First you pin the stomacher on, working the pins horizontally through your stays. Next, you put the gown on and pin it vertically to the stomacher, hiding the pins under the robings. I always keep a pin ball handy (I’ll talk more about this in the next post on accouterments) in case any pins work themselves free during the course of the day. You’d be surprised how common this is.
I can’t stress enough that the best thing you can do is start with your impression and build from there. Who were you? What were your life circumstances? Go online and look at museum collections. Check out period prints and art. Notice details. Paul Sandby is great for seeing how everyday people dressed. Fine arts like paintings typically show us what people with the means to commission paintings were wearing. Check out books from the library and read them. I will be including a list of my favorite books that deal with 18th c fashion in the next iteration of the Shirttail Mess zine out soon, so if you are interested in that, click the link to “buy me a coffee” and subscribe so you won’t miss it.
I plan to finish this series next with a post on accessories and accoutrements. I will endeavor to have this out in the next month or so, for pre-living history season sewing fun!
Yr obedient servant,
Mrs. Jacob Book
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