"Our Squaws are very necessary..." : Two days on the Kentucky with my wife - Part 1 : Preparations

     It is MONDAY March 23rd as I begin to write this and so ends about a week of what can be described as nonstop inconveniences from power outages to unexpected expenditures. It's been a lot and I finally feel like I can breathe a little. As I was experiencing all of this upheaval, I dreamt of the woods. Funny, being that our counterparts in the 18th century did not view the woods with the same romantic notion of "getting away from it all" that we do in our modern lives, but that's just an aspect that I embrace. I love being able to get out in the woods and experience a taste of what the 18th century traveller might have experienced. To that end, for some time now, I have been dreaming up a trek with my wife and we've decided that this upcoming weekend is the time to do it. We both feel stretched thin and a nice getaway into nature sounds like the perfect antidote to all our recent woes. 

    As I've been preparing for this, I've been once again diving into Cresswell's incredible narrative. In August of 1775, he finds himself in the Ohio Country traveling between native towns and at one point is given a squaw to accompany him on his journeys. He calls her Nancy, and it is this little moment of Cresswells journey that I've zeroed in on as inspiration for our outing this coming weekend. 

    Quickly, before I begin, I must brag on my wife. When I first met her, she was a tent camping, cot sleeping gal. She told me that she'd NEVER sleep on the ground or outside a tent. Well, she has done both of those things now and I'm a proud husband. She even agreed to be a captive and slept in a cave with a bunch of natives. 

Eileen as a captive, In Pursuit of the Captives, 2023

Cresswell writes just before taking up with Nancy that he is advised not to wear a hunting shirt in this part of the country. 

Monday, August 21st, 1775. "Mr. Anderson informs me that the Indians are not well pleased at anyone going into their Country dressed in a Hunting shirt. Got a Calico shirt made in the Indian fashion, trimmed up with Silver Brooches and Armplates so that I scarcely know myself."

 With this in mind, I have decided to habituate myself in a similar manner. A simple kit of shirt, breechcloth, leggings and moccasins. I'll bring along my jacket as well, a blanket coat for warmth in the evening. I also have decided to wear my small round hat. 

    Eileen is basing her kit on native dress from period images and written accounts. Cresswell writes of the women : 

"The women wear the same sort of shirts as the men and a sort of short petticoat that comes no lower than the knee, leggings and Mockeysons, the same as the men. Wear their hair long, curled down the back in silver plates, if they can afford it, if not tied in a club with red gartering. No rings in the nose but plenty in the ears. Both men and women paint with Vermillion and other colours mixed with Bear's Oil and adorn themselves with any tawdry thing they think pretty."

As we begin our preparations we are trying to decide on what kind of shelter we will attempt to make. We'll likely go with some kind of blanket tent, but if we can swing it, maybe a brush wickiup of some kind. We will have with us several blankets and a buffalo hide. Likely we won't do something as elaborate as the below photo because we won't have a tent cloth, but maybe a smaller version of this can be achieved with one of our blankets.

For provisions we are weighing our options. The canoe scout with Jim Jacobs really helped me get a sense of what one could need on extended journeys in the woods. For Cresswell and Nancy, they seem to have eaten what they could forage or procure day to day as they travelled between the towns. Here is what he mentions: 

Indian Country--Tuesday, August 22nd, 1775. A very heavy fog this morning. We had got two bottles of Rum, two loaves of Bread, and a Bacon Ham along with us.

Wednesday, August 23rd, 1775. Nothing to eat but berries such as we found in the woods.

Thursday, August 24th, 1775 Got plenty of Red plums and wild Cherries which is our only food.

Friday, August 25th, 1775 Breakfasted, dined and supped on Plums and Wild Cherries.

Saturday, August 26th, 1775 Killed a Rattlesnake. Just as the Sun went down we stopped to get our Supper on some Dewberries (a small berry something like a Gooseberry)

It's the end of March, so we won't have much luck foraging for berries and such, so we are going to need to rely more on what we can bring along. We'll likely bring along some jerk, salt pork, 50/50 Cornmeal and masa to make bannock bread, and some parched corn. 

I plan to pack some of the provisions in the center of the buffalo robe and make a sort of flat bale out of it that I can then carry with my tumpline. I'll make a bedroll for Eileen. I wish we were making this trip on horseback, as Cresswell and Nancy did or at the very least that we had a packhorse. I am debating taking my knapsack with me. I don't think I will, simply because I think I can pack up all the food and extra gear inside the buffalo robe or the blanket rolls, using our two wallets as a way to contain everything. We'll bring a kettle along, or maybe the frying pan. It' all really up in the air until we get all the gear laid out and decide what works best. I'm going to stop for now, but I'll return tomorrow. Tonights project is to cut out a small leather pouch for Eileen's fire kit. 

TUESDAY morning has arrived and I am going to start working on this fire kit bag. I taught Eileen to build a flint and steel fire last year, so for this outing, I'm putting her in charge of the fire. A funny story. The first time we went camping together, I started to make a fire and she said "Oh, you know how to make a fire?" She says that the indignation was all over my face. One of my favorite things is having new experiences together and this weekend will certainly be a somewhat new experience. Eileen is a bit apprehensive about the woods and the discomforts it can pose, but lately I have noticed a keen interest to learn a bit more about woods knowledge and how to "survive" in those settings. I think this will be a great way for her to dip her toes into those waters. 

 Another project I have before the weekend is to repair an old shirt that I'm going to adorn with some brooches similar to Joseph Brant. I am using his kit as a sort of basis for mine during this excursion. Cresswell describes a very similar situation to what we see here in this painting. 

    Eileen needs a new pair of leggings so we'll be using some leftover green broadcloth from my waistcoat. Hoping to fit those to her tonight and begin the sewing process. 

    I am hoping that we can do a little fishing on the Kentucky river. We'll be camped just above it on a ridge overlooking the valley. I haven't really put that skill to the test, but we have a period fishing kit and Eileen and I both grew up fishing. We'll see if we can subsist a bit on that. In fact, Cresswell describes his party catching a catfish very near to where we will be on the Kentucky River. 

Tuesday, May, 30th, 1775. This day Mr. Nourse, Mr. Taylor and Rice went to take a view of the Country. Mr. Johnston and I took a walk about 3 miles from the River, find the land pretty level, a blackish sandy soil. Timber chiefly Beech. In our absence those at the Camp caught a large Catfish which measured six inches between the eyes. We supposed it would weigh 40 pounds. Don't expect our company back tonight.

    Eileen is not a fan of fish, but maybe if we prepare it correctly, she'll give it a try. 

Well, I am off to work on projects...

WEDNESDAY morning I awake to my wife preparing to go to work. Last night she sent me a link to a Bushcraft 101 course she's interested in checking out. I have this tendency to get excited on behalf of others, maybe a little more excited than they actually are, so I tried not to give myself away, but I was happy. While modern bush craft isn't always my cup of tea, I do enjoy being out in the woods and testing skills. Building a fire, shelter etc are things I enjoy immensely. I really hope she can learn some things and gets something out of this weekends experience. 

    I sewed up part of the fire kit bag last night. More work to do on that today. Scraps of linen were provided by Eileen to repair my shirt. Leggings still need cut out. 

    I procured some salt pork yesterday and tonight is date night, so while we're out, I'll procure the rest of our food. Theres a local fancy grocery store here where I get a lot of my food supplies for occasions such as this. Just purchased a 1 day fishing license. 

    It's evening now and as it stands I finished the bag, sewed repairs on my shirt and have gathered together most of my kit for this weekend. I went through my shot pouch and made sure everything was in order. Tomorrow I'll fill my horn. Tomorrow we'll cut out Eileen's leggings and she plans to sew them on the way down Friday. She enjoys having a project to work on during the car ride. We'll also make a run to the store and finish our provisions. 

Shot pouch by Tony Bertolino 

Our excitement for this weekend has been building. It's something I'm grateful for, having a partner who is willing to come along on these adventures with me. I say "with me" as if she's just indulging me, as if this is entirely my project, but the great thing is that she finds a way to make it her own, and that's a great feeling. I always feel bad for the fellow who has to tip toe around his spouse to pursue the passions and dreams he has burning in his belly. I'm a lucky man to experience the mutual love and support that we have for each other. Alright, enough of that mushy stuff. 

    One of the things Eileen plans to bring along with her is her 18th century paint and sketch set. While not something a native woman would have been doing, we both think the results of her sketching our camp and our adventures will make for a long lasting and sentimental record of our trip together. 

    My kit as I lay it out this evening consists of the following : 

-White linen shirt 

-Linen jacket 

-Small brimmed round hat 

-3 handkerchiefs 

-Stroud breechclout 

-Leggings and woven garters

-2 pairs of moccasins 

-Stockings 

-Knit cap 

-Belt

-Journal and porta-crayon 

-fire kit pouch ( Contents: Flint & Steel, tow and cedar bark, charred cloth, tobacco and pipe)

-Smoothbore

-Shot pouch (Contents : Ball, tow, pick, gun tool, cuttoe knife, measure, extra flints) 

-Horn 

-Trade knife 

-Belt axe 

-Hoppus (tumpline) 

-Buffalo Robe and Wool Blanket 

    Tomorrow I will go over Eileen's kit. For now, I must take my leave for now. 

THURSDAY finds me awake and making porridge in the kitchen. Porridge has become a staple breakfast food for me in the last year. I'm writing this while it cooks on the stove. Eileen is snug in bed doing her morning routine of drinking coffee and reading books, her favorite pastime. 

    Today we need to get the rest of our food provisions as we didn't make it over to the grocery last night. Once that is done, we will basically be ready to go besides packing up our gear. I am going to do a few trial tests on Eileen's bedroll situation and see what method might work best for rolling up all of her belongings into it. 

    Her bedroll consists of two wool blankets with her tumpline tied up and suspended across the upper chest supported by her shoulders. Her kit for the weekend goes as follows : 

-Chamise 

-Bed jacket 

-Wrap skirt 

-Leggings and beaded finger woven garters 

-Trade silver and beads, necklaces and ear bobs 

-Moccasins 

-Check linen shirt

-Market Wallet consisting of : 

        -Buckskin bag consisting of flint & steel, charred cloth, tow, fishing kit, ankle bells (for dancing), red ochre for paint 

        -Linen bag with mirror and toiletries 

        -Sketch kit and sketchbooks

        -Heavy wool stockings and silk stockings

-Trade kettle, wooden bowl and horn spoon

-Two wool blankets

    I ran to the store this afternoon and picked up the supplies. Some bread, cornmeal and masa mixed together for making bannock, dried apples and peaches, parched corn and jerky. Fingers crossed we'll catch some fish too! 

    That's all for now. Tomorrow we embark on the adventure. Part 2 will arrive next week. 

    

Wallets Work!

It's Winter so I have a beard. I shave for events. You should too. 

It's a cold day here in early March, and I have the immersion event on the brain. We're only a month and half out and so that wonderful question of what to take along for this event is the foremost thought in my mind. I may have said this previously, but preparing for an event is almost if not just as fun as going to the event itself. I love the entire process. Getting your gear all laid out, deciding what is important or specific to this particulate excursion. It's such a fun process. 

Recently, I saw a video that has me focused on wallets and their use in the backcountry. In the video, the wallet is presented as a good historical option, but then we're told that it doesn't actually work in the woods. Well, I couldn't let that slide. I've used wallets in the woods for years now, as have many of my backcountry colleagues and we've never had an issue using them. We've talked about the wallet somewhat on this blog when Matthew Fennewald wrote the "Wallet Well Stored" article, but I wanted to go even deeper. 

As a personal preference, I am very much a proponent of the knapsack. It doesn't get much more straightforward and easy than that. Basically a backpack, it's a great for carrying gear, it's evenly balanced across your shoulders and back and it provides a lot of room. You can easily tie a blanket roll to the top and you're ready to go. 

The wallet however is an item that gets a lot of hate from a particular set of the hobby that seems more interested in fantasies and using phrases like "personal preference" and "doing with what they had" as justification for not adopting actual documented methods of transporting gear. A haversack is the favored piece of gear despite the fact that haversacks just don't really show up in civilian and back country contexts enough to justify their widespread use amongst reenactors. Did they exist? Yes. Do we see them described being used by militia and backcountry explorers and hunters? Not really. So why would you choose to use that over a much more highly documented and common item? 

Some things you hear about carrying the wallet is that it slides off the shoulder easily, that it flops around. Well, I am going to prove that carrying a wallet is not only period correct, but also comfortable and practical. First of all, filling the wallet properly is the first step. I usually put food stuffs, consisting of parched corn, salt pork, jerky, bread and usually a bottle of port in one end and personal items such as an extra shirt, knit cap, moccasins, pipe and tobacco, and extra tender. I tie my tin cup to my bedroll, per period descriptions of doing so. I put my bag and horn on and then but the wallet over my left shoulder. Then I put my blanket roll on over the market wallet. The weight of the blanket will hold the back portion of the wallet down and the front portion is weighed down sufficiently by the food stuffs. I never have any issues with the wallet flopping around or shifting off of my shoulder. 

 To wrap things up, I really don't understand the prejudice against using the wallet by a certain set in the hobby, especially to do so in favor of something less commonly seen in the contexts they claim to portray. And often, the haversack, rather than being a linen haversack, are often some strangely designed waterproofed weirdness. As I've demonstrated in the article and the accompanying video, you really can't go wrong, and if you are wearing it correctly, the wallet won't let you down. 

 

New Year and Immersion on the Horizon

  Well, it's been a quiet winter so far here in the Ohio Valley. I have been, admittedly, a little preoccupied with other things and reenacting hasn't been at the forefront of my thoughts. It always circles back around though and I find myself plunging back into it. The last thing I did was the canoe trip with Jim Jacobs which will go down as a highlight of 2025. I hope to share some more experiences with him in this coming year. 

   

     In April, we are planning to host the 4th immersion event in the Shirttail Mess's nearly decade long history. From the snow storm of Floyd's Defeat, to the Pursuit of the Captives and on into Dark and Bloody Ground we've had some amazing experiences that tested our fortitude and our resolve and our gear. Each and every one so far has been a unique experience and this next one promises to be no different. 

    Raid on the Kentucky will feature opposing forces made up of Kentucky Militia on the one side, and a mixed party of Kings 8th, Canadian Militia and Native Allies operating out of Fort Detroit in the late 1770s. Our scenario is a plausible one, rather than based on a specific account or battle. This gives us some liberty and some ability to shape a story of our own while maintaining high standards of authenticity. 

    We are hoping with fingers crossed this this even will prove to be the most well attended yet. Based on what we have planned, I really think you'll want to make every effort to be there. As usual, the standards will be high, so make sure you check out past event standards and if you have any questions, you can reach out.

    When the Shirttail Mess started all those years ago, this was really the kind of events I always wanted to be a part of and as they say, if you want something done, I won't say right because I don't think this is necessarily right, but if you want something done the way you envision it, you have to do it yourself. And that goes for so many things. If you don't see the kind of thing going on that you'd want to be a part of, then chances are you may have to organize it yourself. The good news is, there's probably a bunch of people out there thinking the same thing. Find your people, and build something awesome. I have been supported by so many amazing individuals since starting to host these things, from Alan Kraus to David McClanahan. 

    With immersion on the horizon, it's time to start pulling things out and making plans, which is probably just as fun as doing the event itself. I just love the ritual of laying all the gear out and the process of elimination. It's weirdly satisfying. I have a basically brand new pair of moccasins that I finished up just before the Jim Jacobs canoe trip and still need to repair some old ones. I don't think I have any other major projects to finish before the deadline. 

    The scenario this year calls for a bit more of a campaign style kit, a marching out of the station to make war on the natives as they come to disrupt our settlement. That will involve a bit less than what was packed in for the last event where we portrayed a more permanent hunting camp. So I'll going for something a little more streamlined. 

    

     I really hope you'll consider registering for this one. As usual, we have a very strict jurying process. Kit needs to meet high standards, but I'm willing to work with you if you're willing to alter your kit and make changes. Don't let it prevent you from having a great experience. 

 Registration can be found HERE

And here's an example of the acceptable variety of impressions for the Kentucky Militia side of things. (I'd usually never recommend following Jason Gatliff's example because you might end up in the pillory in Williamsburg (just ask Ty Davis), but here I will make an exception) 

Jim Jacobs Canoe Scout

    

    Jim was already dressed when I pulled into the parking lot he had designated, a canoe strapped tightly to the top of his SUV. I stepped out in my modern clothing, and after exchanging pleasantries we hopped back in and made our way to the boat launch. As we drove down the meandering road, the blacktop shifted to gravel—almost a symbolic portal marking our departure from modern things, a quiet slipping into worlds past. The forest around us felt otherworldly, the light filtering through the trees and striking the leaf-covered floor in hues of orange, yellow, and green. My mind was full of thoughts about what we were about to experience, and about what the man beside me had already lived out in this wilderness.

    Jim Jacobs became enamored with the woods and with history at a young age. He told me about roaming the forests with his BB gun, imagining himself a frontiersman like Daniel Boone. When he discovered reenacting, all bets were off; he immersed himself fully into the 18th century. A major inspiration was Mark Baker, who took academic knowledge and turned it into lived experience. That method resonated with Jim, who became enthralled with historical trekking—living as early explorers, Indian traders, and trappers once lived. Over time he developed a reputation for organizing scouts, some of which have become legendary tales told around campfires.

    We arrived at the landing site, and I dressed and unpacked my gear. Jim and I did a bit of trading—a kettle for one of his awls and a tobacco pouch. He also gifted me seeds from his garden, part of his growing historical skillset in 18th-century farming. Something I learned about Jim is that he always brings along a month’s worth of provisions, even for a weekend scout. The idea is twofold: first, to reflect the essential loadout for a long journey of this type, and second, to serve as a practical precaution if circumstances require staying put longer than expected.

Our provisions for the weekend included:

4 lbs of parched corn

4 lbs of cornmeal

2 lbs of beans

A small quantity of jerk and a block of maple sugar

A bundle of Johnny cakes

A sack of ground coffee

½ lb of cut tobacco

A fifth of rum

A bundle of dried mullein leaf

    I brought my own supplies—salt pork, jerk, parched corn, flour, and coffee. With this combined stock, we were well set for an extended stay in the woods.

    We loaded the canoe carefully, tying everything down to prevent loss in the event of a capsize. Jim told me a story of once tipping his boat; though he lost only a glove, the experience sounded miserable. He had managed to get everything ashore, build a huge fire, and dry out. I hoped we’d avoid a similar fate. Once our provisions and accoutrements were aboard, we stepped into the canoe—a modern one, though its modernness quickly faded as we pushed off down the creek.

    The world became quiet. All we could hear were the birds and the soft slosh of our paddles. A beaver to our right sounded its alarm with a tail slap before diving into the water. A heron lifted from the shoreline and glided down the creek ahead of us. We wove our way through deadfall, occasionally brushing submerged logs hidden by the murky water, hoping we wouldn’t have to climb out to free the canoe. Our luck held. Jim described the lay of the land as we approached, but I found myself distracted by the sheer beauty of the place.

     Jim looks like he stepped straight out of a Paul Sandby sketch—his clothing well-worn and lived-in, a look I’ve always admired. His gear shows similar use; these aren’t props for an “impression” but tools for sustaining himself in the woods. He is a living historian in every sense, taking what he finds in dusty tomes and applying it in pursuit of practical knowledge. Jim and his wife Chris were part of a core group in the ’90s who pushed the boundaries of reenacting, transforming it from a periodic costume hobby into something deeper and more lived-in. Many of us have adopted this “lifestyle” approach, where at any given time a friend in the hobby is either making, repairing, or reading something related to their 18th-century persona. Jim and others like him have been major inspirations to me as I pursue firsthand experience of our 18th-century counterparts and their backcountry lives.

     We reached the landing spot and eased the canoe against the bank. I found a solid foothold, stepped out, and tied us off to a sapling. Jim suggested we scout for a campsite before unloading. He prompted me to load my gun, and he loaded his while still standing in the canoe. I helped him ashore, and we headed into the trees. We found a few promising areas. For shelter we carried a 9×9 tarp, blankets, a buffalo robe, and a bearskin. We discussed possible setups—lean-tos, tarp shelters, or simply bedding down against one of the many fallen logs that littered the forest floor, forming natural windbreaks. Jim told me of past nights spent with nothing more than leaves piled for a bed. Farther up, he showed me a forked tree designated years ago as “Jacobs Station.” Eventually we settled on a site and returned to unload, but not before Jim paused for a smoke, sparking one of many conversations we’d share that weekend.

    Jim is old enough to be my father, something he acknowledges with grace. Our mutual respect was obvious. We talked about how reenacting remains one of the few places today where young and old meet with shared purpose. He said it warms his heart to see younger folks pushing the hobby in ways he could only have dreamed of in the ’90s. I told him how much men like him have inspired me, how their stories fueled my own fire. We talked, too, about how the internet has strained relations between generations—older hobbyists feeling threatened, younger ones feeling frustrated. Yet out there in the woods, we defied that dynamic completely.

    We hauled our gear to camp and set up the lean-to. A tumpline strung between two perfectly spaced trees supported the 9×9 tarp. We lashed the back edge to a log, angled the front, and used three poles and a rope to stake it down. Inside we laid our buffalo robe, blankets, and bearskin. I used cedar bark I had harvested earlier as tinder and soon had a fire going. After collecting more firewood, we had enough for the day and night. Jim had brought fresh buffalo meat, and we feasted on it along with the pone. It was some of the best meat I’ve ever tasted—tender, juicy, and rich with flavor.

    We spent the evening talking and getting to know each other. I sewed repairs into my spare moccasins and read from the Virginia Gazette. I had also brought Robinson Crusoe and letters from Eileen. She’s made a habit of slipping letters into my knapsack before I leave, for me to discover later; this trip was no exception.

    Jim has been coming to this area since the early ’90s—sometimes with Chris, “the first woman of the woods,” as Jim called her, and sometimes with larger groups. He’s camped here in every month of the year and learned much from the variety. One story that stuck with me was his tradition of spending a week or two in the woods before Thanksgiving as a kind of spiritual and physical reset. He said he knew he had truly adjusted when Thanksgiving dinner tasted extraordinary after a week of jerk meat and pone. I’m tempted to adopt that tradition myself.

    We talked about what this hobby offers and whether it’s worth pursuing amid modern pressures. The conversation grew philosophical—religion, politics, what it means to be human. We agreed, we disagreed, and in the end respected each other even more. As the fire dimmed, we turned in for the night.

    I never sleep well in the cold, and despite the buffalo robe I tossed and turned. Jim seemed to fare better, his soft snoring proof enough. I finally rose around six, stoked the fire, and stretched out beside it until the sun began to creep over the trees across the creek. Jim stirred, retrieved his blanket coat from behind the shelter, and slipped back under the blankets before rising again. We sat by the fire discussing the day’s plans. I cooked salt pork in my frying pan and shared it with him. He had hoped to take me up the ridge to overlook the area, but said his body wasn’t up to the climb. He suggested I go alone while he tended camp and prepared our gear for the return trip. Rain was coming, and we agreed it would be wiser to leave Saturday evening rather than Sunday morning. Better to know your limits than try to impress someone. The thought of loading a canoe on a wet, slippery bank didn’t appeal to either of us.

      I set off to scout the ridge while Jim worked around camp. Though he’s less active these days, the spark in his eye—the passion for this era and for lived experience—remains strong. He emphasized the importance of humility, curiosity, and the willingness to admit when you don’t know something. I’ve tried to adopt the same principles: to make what I do about others, to inspire folks to get involved, and to use what little knowledge I have to encourage exploration. I don’t know as much as others, and I try not to pretend otherwise.

    When I returned, we broke down camp and carried our provisions to the boat. Before pushing off, we held a little informal shooting match. My gun wouldn’t fire—just a flash in the pan. I assumed the charge was wet. Jim suggested a trick I’d never considered: fill the pan, then use the vent pick to push powder through the touchhole until it’s full. Sure enough, the gun fired immediately. I was glad I didn’t have to pull the ball.

    We set off again, weaving through the deadfall. On a long straight stretch, Jim complimented my paddling rhythm. We reached the forks and spotted a heron rookery to our right. We drifted there a while, smoking our pipes as the boat slowly spun in the still water.

    Suddenly the modern world reappeared—the cars, the parking lot. We unloaded, strapped the canoe to the SUV, and ignored the curious looks from passersby. Jim gave me a share of the buffalo meat, and we went off to have a meal together before heading home to our wives.

    I love this hobby and always will. Experiences like this one—with Jim, who after all these years still carries a twinkle in his eye—fuel my passion and stoke my flame a little brighter. We already have more plans in the works, and I can’t wait. 

The Petticoat Mess: Essentials for a Basic Late 18th Century Women’s Kit Part II Outer Garments

 Here it is nearly a full year after my first post, so much for expeditiously! My apologies, this year has been quite full and busy. Let’s get right to it, shall we?

    Now that you have on your shift, stockings, garters, shoes, and cap it is time to put on the outer layers of your 18th Century clothing. The next thing you are going to want to put on is your petticoat. A petticoat is what we would call a skirt today. For the perfect 18th c silhouette, it is recommended that you always wear at least two petticoats. Petticoats tie around the waist making them incredibly versatile for changing figures. The most common materials are wool, linen, silk, and cotton. The one pictured here is made from a cotton fabric called matelasse. It mimics a quilted petticoat and gives the outer petticoat a bit of “oomph.” The fabric was purchased from Renaissance Fabrics here: 

    https://renaissancefabrics.com/product/white-cotton-matelasse/ 

    Petticoats are incredibly easy to make and are a great first project for the aspiring sewist! They are two lengths of fabric sewn up the sides until about 9” from the waistline. The length is dependent on taste and impression. The waist is pleated to half your total waist measurement both front and back. The pleats are secured to ties that are similar to an apron. You tie the back half of the petticoat on first, and then the front. Poke around online to find a tutorial.  

    The next step is to tie on your pocket. If you’ve ever wondered how Lucy Locket lost her little pocket in the nursery rhyme, well that was because it was tied around her waist and came loose. I typically only wear one but it is period correct also to wear two. Pockets typically do NOT show. There are some Sandby prints of street peddlers where the pockets are showing but this is probably because she needs easy access to her money so she can make change for customers. This pocket is made from an 18th c. reproduction printed cotton, bound with linen tape and backed with a strong linen fabric. You’d be surprised how much you can fit in these things!

    On top of that you’ll wear your outer petticoat. As for the under petticoat fabrics include natural fibers such as linen, wool, cotton, and silk with linen and wool being the most common. Pay careful attention to color choice. Read runaway ads, search old newspapers, see what colors the majority of folks were wearing. 

    If you’re just starting out in living history I highly recommend starting with a bedgown for your first outer garment. The bedgown is great for an everyday person's impression.They are comfortable and very forgiving. The tutorial I used to make mine is the period pattern as described in the Encyclopedia laid out by Garsault: 

    https://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18mdelit.shtml 

    Don’t be daunted by the use of the metric system, your measuring tape no doubt has cm, but feel free to convert if you wish. I made this one from wool, but I also have one made of linen for hotter days.The bedgown is held closed by tying an apron on top of it. The whole look is then topped with a handkerchief. This one came from Burnley and Trowbridge who have a handkerchief to suit every taste. 

The next, and most common outer garment, is the gown. This gown is a stomacher gown which is suitable for impressions from the 1760s to the 1770s. Towards the 1780s you see the rise of the center front gown sans stomacher. This pattern came from one of my favorite places to get patterns, At the Sign of the Golden Scissors. 

    https://atthesignofthegoldenscissors.com/products/18th-century-english-gown 

    This pattern walks you through all the steps necessary to make a perfectly fitting gown by hand. I made this gown from a brown wool “stuff” from Burnley and Trowbridge

https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/collections/wool-worsted-stuffs 

    Linen, cotton, and silk would also be appropriate depending on your impression. First you pin the stomacher on, working the pins horizontally through your stays. Next, you put the gown on and pin it vertically to the stomacher, hiding the pins under the robings. I always keep a pin ball handy (I’ll talk more about this in the next post on accouterments) in case any pins work themselves free during the course of the day. You’d be surprised how common this is.

    I can’t stress enough that the best thing you can do is start with your impression and build from there. Who were you? What were your life circumstances? Go online and look at museum collections. Check out period prints and art. Notice details. Paul Sandby is great for seeing how everyday people dressed. Fine arts like paintings typically show us what people with the means to commission paintings were wearing. Check out books from the library and read them. I will be including a list of my favorite books that deal with 18th c fashion in the next iteration of the Shirttail Mess zine out soon, so if you are interested in that, click the link to “buy me a coffee” and subscribe so you won’t miss it.

    I plan to finish this series next with a post on accessories and accoutrements. I will endeavor to have this out in the next month or so, for pre-living history season sewing fun!

Yr obedient servant,

Mrs. Jacob Book