The Petticoat Mess : Essentials for a Basic Late 18th Century Women’s Kit: Part I, Underthings

     Abigail Adams in 1776 admonished her husband, John Adams, to “remember the ladies” as he and the other founding fathers were crafting what would become the framework of these United States. I felt it high time that this blog do the same. This is the first Shirttail Mess post aimed at the female living historian. My name is Eileen Book, and I have been heavily involved in this hobby since 2017. My primary topic of interest centers around women and their roles before, during, and after the American War for Independence. 

     Any new endeavor, especially one as varied as beginning in the living history hobby, can be daunting. Unlike our forebears, we today have limitless information at hand. One can escape down any number of rabbit holes and invariably end up more confused than when they started. This post is an attempt to serve as a basic guideline for those who are new to the hobby. The following will be a list of what I consider to be essential pieces of basic female kit, undergarments edition.

    We’ll start with underwear. Underwear in this period for women is called a shift or chemise. What it is is a simple linen undergarment. It is worn between the skin and the clothes. It is meant to absorb the sweat from the body and keep it off the outer garments. You will need at least one but better to have two for especially hot weekend events. The best resource for making one of your own is this article by the late Sharon Burnston: http://sharonburnston.com/shifts/shifts.html 

    Before you put on your stays you will want to put up your hair and cover it with a cap. Caps are almost always made from white linen. They keep the hair clean while working over a fire or traveling a dusty road when fleeing the British. A wonderful resource for sewing your own is the Capalog blog: https://capalog.blog/2021/02/28/a-pattern-for-an-18th-c-lappet-cap/

    Next you will need to put on your stockings. These will be cotton, linen, wool, or silk. You can obtain these from any number of reputable sellers, my personal favorite is Burnley and Trowbridge: https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/collections/stockings You will also need a way to hold them up, a set of garters tied just below the knee will serve you well. Silk ribbon makes a good garter; silk seems to stay tied better than anything else I’ve found. I’ve seen others use bits of wool or linen tape as garters. Put on your shoes after this step, trust me, you do not want to be attempting to bend over in your stays to buckle your shoes. I bought a pair from a vendor that doesn’t have a website but these would be great for most impressions: https://www.americanduchess.com/collections/18th-century-shoes-and-boots/products/kensington-18th-century-shoe-black 

    

    The next thing you NEED is going to be a decent fitting set of stays. These are non-negotiable unless you have a medical reason for not wearing them. These are your support garment and also give you the pleasant conical shape that was so en vogue during the time. Tight lacing for working women is a myth. They should be quite comfortable and support your back, middle, and, ahem, other things. If they hurt, they are not the right size. Get or make the right size. This is a great pattern that will walk you step by step through the process of making period correct stays:  https://atthesignofthegoldenscissors.com/products/front-and-back-lacing-stays-pattern 

     If you have a person who will be always going to events with you, back lacing is preferable but if you tend to go out alone, front lacing will be a God send. My current pair have straps but when I make my next pair, they will be strapless as I feel they are more versatile and less worry about the straps showing when you make a gown. 

    Does this sound like a lot? It is. Which is why this can be such a scary thing for the person new to this hobby. I highly, HIGHLY encourage anyone who takes up this hobby to learn to sew. It is an essential skill and will serve you well. You will save so much money by learning to do this. The aforementioned Burnley and Trowbridge have a wonderful YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/c/BurnleyandTrowbridgeCo where they teach you the sewing essentials and before you know it you will be ultra-progressive and look down your nose at anyone who deigns to use a machine. Okay, maybe you won’t be quite like that, but you will get to experience a little taste of the lives of your fore-mothers which is really why we’re here in the first place, right? Right. 

Part II to follow expediently.

Yr Obedient Servant,

Mrs. Jacob Book

I've Changed my Mind about Beards....well, not really.

     It seems like every time I feel like the debate couldn't be any more case closed about beards in the 18th century, new questions and debates crop up all over the place. I haven't changed my mind. Beards were not common place in the 18th century. If they were, you'd see paintings of prominent upper class people wearing them, and they were not. They simply were not in fashion and that to me isn't really debatable. What is debatable is the extent to which beards existed amongst working class people in the 18th century at any given time. 

    There is plenty out there to support beards for the person wanting to justify a beard, or is there? Well, yes, and no and maybe. 

Here's a weird one : 

THE VIRGINIA GAZETTE 

April 4, 1777

DESERTED from Elk Ridge landing, Maryland , the 5th of February last, four soldiers belonging to capt. Charles Fleming's company of the 7th Virginia regiment..... JOEL JOHNSON , a low well set thin man, about 5 feet 5 or 6 inches high, wears his own hair and very large whiskers, full faced; had on a hunting shirt dyed black, fringed round the capes, ruffles, tail, and down the breast, belted with the skin of a rattle snake , and had with him a bundle in a blanket.

 And there's a lot of these. Thanks to Chris Couch I've been made aware of this breakdown through searching the Virginian Gazette and other newspapers: 

large beard----127

long beard----198

thin beard------21

red beard------88

sandy beard----48

black beard---116

    That's a lot of beard references. Here's another one : 

August 23, 1753 The Pennsylvania Gazette 

RUN away from the subscriber, living in Robeson township, Berks county, near Reading, an Irish servant man, named William Moore, about 30 years of age, five fet six inches high, thick and well set, of a dark complexion, pock mark, his hair cut off but commonly keeps his beard pretty long; has a very slow gait, and is not muc given to discourse: Had on when he went away, an old felt hat, but no cap, good ozenbrigs shirt, two trowsers, old blue stockings, and half worn shoes, with brass buckles, an old blue jacket, and a brown coat, about half worn; also took with him a pair of black buckskin breeches, almost new, with brass buttons, and an old shirt. Whoever takes up and secures said servant, so that his master may have him again, shall have Forty Shillings reward, and reasonable charges, paid by JOSEPH MONEY

 Strange, I know. And then there are images. We have several, yes. But most illustrations are of poor people. And even then, the vast majority of images of poor people show clean shaven people. Paul Sandby's collection features all manner of lowly persons and not a one of them, or close to it, is bearded. 

    So where does this leave us. I really don't know. In my personal opinion, until we can get people to care about cut and fit of their clothes and stop buying from the Walmart stores or get the Walmart stores to carry better products, then shaving is really a moot point. Shaving won't fix a bad impression. But clothes will surely redeem a little facial hair. 

Farby me. The beard being shaved would not redeem this poorly executed kit. Yikes.

Progressive me. Shaving doesn't really detract from the fact that this kit is good. Shaving would make it much more kosher considering the fashion of the time, but it's still, based on many accounts, plausible.

So what on earth do we do? Shave. That's the safest and most likely bet. But, I'd suggest getting that kit squared away first and then worry about shaving for that progressive campaigner event you've wanted to attend that said "ABSOLUTELY NO BEARDS". Heck, I might have even wrote those words in bold letters on that very impression guideline you read. Well, I stand by it...mostly. 

Martins Station Recap, Thoughts on Militia Companies and Billy Heck's Retirement

  

  Eileen and I travelled down to the Cumberland Gap this past weekend and for the first time set up the store. It was a great success and I want to thank all who came by and perused and purchased. It was great to see old friends and new. 

Myself drumming for the forts company circa 2004-05

   

     I want to congratulate Billy Heck on his retirement and just say what a wonderful job he has done over the years making Martins Station one of the most special places to visit and attend events at. I've been coming to Martins since I was 11 years old and it made a huge impact on me. Everything from drumming for the fort militia company under the watchful eye of Captain Titus and the long death marches that are now legend. Getting sold as an indentured servant to the late Wayne Milton and being thrown up on the back of his horse and riding out of the station. Seeing the August County Militia for the first time come sweeping onto the field in relief of the station during one of the Raid events and thinking to myself, I want to do whatever those guys are doing.  Walking into the station on a Friday evening and seeing the common house all lit up and warm with punch and shrub, song and story. It's an atmosphere that few places have and which Billy so meticulously cultivated with the help and support of the reenactors who bought into the vision. Thank you Billy!

Billy Heck 

    Piggy backing off of the Prickett's Dunmore event, I really wanted to bring a bit of that to Martins and we successfully managed to wrangle up about 10 volunteers for a drill outside the fort walls. The militia thing always seemed to be a contentious issue around the hobby in the old days. The idea that militia equalled a certain level of undress, or ill discipline. I would say that while there may be some truth to it, it's largely overblown and over stressed. I think the discipline in some places was probably very ill and in other places very healthy. I think once again we run into this sort of vision of the rugged individual that this blog has spent its life trying to temper with a more nuanced and sometimes downright opposite direction. Just like the life of the modern day Martins Station and the vision Billy Heck cultivated over those years, no amount of rugged individualism could have carried us through the tumultuous years of the American Revolution. It took individuals coming together for a common purpose that brought us what we have today. Martins Station was a labor of love for so many individuals who came together to create a wonderful atmosphere and environment that has stood for the last 25 years. 

    In 1777 the militia regulations in Virginia read : 

"There shall be a private muster of every company once in every month, except the months of January and February, at such convenient time and place as the captain, or next commanding officer, shall appoint, and a general muster in each county, on some day in the months of April and October, in every year, to be appointed by the county lieutenant, or other commanding officer: For notifying the time and place whereof, the captains, or next commanding officers, shall have power to order so many of their serjeants as they shall think fit to give notice to every person belonging to the company of the time and place of such general or private muster, as the case may be; and if any serjeant, so appointed, shall fail in his duty, he shall forfeit and pay forty shillings for every such failure. Every officer and soldier shall appear at his respective muster-field by eleven o’clock in the forenoon, armed or accoutred as follows: The county lieutenant, colonels, lieutenant colonels, and major, with a sword; every captain and lieutenant with a firelock and bayonet, a cartouch box, a sword, and three charges of powder and ball; every ensign with a sword; every non-commissioned officer and private with a rifle and tomahawk, or good firelock and bayonet, with a pouch and horn, or a cartouch or cartridge box, and with three charges of powder and ball; and, moreover, each of the said officers and soldiers shall constantly keep one pound of powder and four pounds of ball, to be produced whenever called for by his commanding officer."

    Not exactly a bunch of Natty Bumpos running around. This document goes on to discuss fines that could be levied if one didn't do ones duty. This was an every day part of life and so meeting for a monthly muster, one would have gotten decently proficient at drill and would have understood and known what was expected. 

    Martins Station is a place where the balance between the myth and the reality comes together. I was always glad that Billy, Titus and the others really made sure that the militia element was well represented. Titus was a disciplinarian and he always gave you a sense of realism that I've rarely experienced. His whole manner was the 18th century and he made sure that everyone around him was there with him. 

Kyle Willyard has done an excellent job of filling his shoes and making sure the fort garrison is always well ordered. 

    

        Nobody is ever truly on their own hook, not now and not out on the frontier of 18th century Virginia. Billy Heck, individual he may be, was supported by many other individuals and a vision was realized and continues to be realized by all those that continue to attend and be inspired by Martins Station. Now more than ever, let this be a lesson to us as we continue to realize the vision of our forbearers.     

Dunmore's War 250th at Pricketts Fort

     Men from across Augusta County assembled at Prickett's Fort this past weekend to defend the frontier at the behest of Lord Dunmore. This year marked the 250th anniversary of the war known as Dunmore's War that took place in the year 1774. This pivotal moment in history was a part of the build up towards Revolution and it was a pleasure to be able to participate in something that I myself had direct ancestors involved with. 

    We arrived at the fort Friday afternoon and saw many familiar faces as we settled in for the evening. In the morning scouts were assembled and were sent out away from the fort to hopefully bring word of any native presence in the area. 

Captain Ervin sending out the scouts

    

    Next the Forts company was assembled for morning drill and exemptions were given to several men who were employed in other places but that contributed to the overall well being of the garrison. Some of them, a Mr. Kobuck and Mr. Bertolino claimed to be employed out of Fort Pitt and were being held against their will. The ladies of the fort offered their services in mending and darning clothing. 

Beckie and Eileen 

    The forts garrison then assembled and took instruction from Captain Ervin. This really was excellent and I think we were really able to capture the feel of a local garrison that has been called into service. We performed our drill using the 64' manual of arms and once the rust was knocked off, we were very proficient in executing it. 

    

    Then once again in the afternoon Captain Kraus took over for some light infantry training and we did a lot of fun maneuvers. 

    

    Upon the completion of drill our sections were assigned walls in the fort in the event of an attack. The scouts arrived later in the afternoon and we were informed of a potential threat so everyone man hurried to his post on the wall and within a minute the whole fort was secure and prepared for the enemy. The women grabbed axes and were stationed near the center building in the event of a breach in the defenses. 

    Afterwards we settled in for the evening and had an excellent meal prepared by the commissary. Bill and Heather Schneider did an excellent job of providing so much good food for the event. Corporal Iten was on hand at all times to cook and prepare meals. Just a wonderful team effort. The evening was filled with music, conversation and a very boisterous speech from Mr. Kobuck, a Pennsylvania man, warning us of the dangers that were to befall us if we followed Captain Kraus and so, he suggested, we leave with him in the morning for Fort Pitt. At this point, Captain Kraus was informed of the slander coming from within the walls of our station and he burst into the room pleading the cause of Virginia. 

    The next morning we began preparations to leave the station and by 12:30 we were once again drilling in the field. Later that afternoon while I was leading drill I was informed by Captain Ervin that a letter had arrived and we had orders to arrest Mr. Kobuck and his associate Mr. Bertolino. It seems he was acting as an agent of Pennsylvania and was fomenting desertion amongst the inhabitants of our country. I marched the column into the fort where it was announced, much to Mr. Kobuck's surprise that he was to be placed under arrest. I saw Mr. Bertolino attempting to hide himself behind a cabin wall and I promptly seized him. 

    The event was an incredible success and I had a great time. Thanks to David Ervin for organizing this and everyone else for their contributions. Couldn't think of a better start to the 250th Campaign. 

HUZZAH!